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Mapping Your Lash Extension For The Perfect Set

November 06, 2022 6 min read

Mapping Your Lash Extension For The Perfect Set

  The lash mapping technique is essential to creating a fabulous set of lash extensions for your clients. It is a precise and expert approach for you to arrange the lengths, thicknesses, and curls in different areas on a lash design.

It's a great method for producing lash extensions that suit various eye shapes and achieve the style and dramatics that your clients desire.

  In this blog, we’ll teach you how to do lash mapping properly, as well as some popular lash maps for your reference!


Popular Lash Mappings:


Natural lash mapping will follow the natural growth of the client’s lashes. It is a style of gradual change in shape without a dramatic increase in length.


Effect:  Looks the most natural with a small increase in length.

Suitable Eye Shapes:  Almond eyes, upturned eyes, round eyes

Avoid on: Hooded eyes, monolid eyes, downturned eyes


 Doll eye/Open eye


  The longest false lashes of this map are over the iris, then the length of lashes drops down dramatically on the inner and outer corners.


Effect:Corrects downturned eyes, enlarge your eyes.

Suitable Eye Shapes: Almond eyes, monolid eyes, downturned eyes, hooded eyes, wide-set eyes

Avoid on: Round eyes, upturned eyes, narrow face shapes, and close-set eyes


Cat eye


  Cat eye mapping will stay short until it reaches the pupil, then the length will greatly increase from the center to the outer corner of the eye.


Effect: Makes eyes look wider, corrects close-set eyes.

Suitable Eye Shapes: Almond eyes, round eyes, upturned eyes, monolid eyes, hooded eyes, close-set eyes

Avoid on: Downturned eyes, wide-set eyes 



Checklist: Before starting lash mapping


  • Eyeliner/pencil. This is for mapping on the skin first.
  • Gel pads. These are placed over the lower lashes during extensions.
  • A colored pen. This is for marking on the gel pads. It’s better to use contrasting colors with eyelashes, such as a red pen.
  • Lash extensions. You’ll need various lengths and curls.


Observing the client’s facial features:

  To evaluate whether the client's request or the design you had in mind is suited for them, you must first assess certain features of the client's face and eyes. 

  The client must remain still and face you directly for a minute while you examine the eye in detail to evaluate different aspects of it. This cannot be done if the client is lying down as it will not accurately portray the customer's facial features.


Different Eye Shape 

There are 4 main types of eye shapes, which are almond, round, hooded and monolid.


Almond Eyes

  Almond eyes are a common eye shape, in which the iris is slightly hidden above and below the upper and lower eyelids. You are more likely to have round eyes if you can see your complete iris.


  • Recommended:Almost every style works well with almond-shaped eyes. Depending on the outcome the client wants to achieve, you can select a suitable mapping (larger eyes or elongated shapes). 
  • Pay close attention to the face's contour, the direction of the eyelashes, and the outer (up and down) corners of the eyes.


Round Eyes

  If the complete iris is visible and the lid is not covered above or below, you have a round eye. This eye shape generally has an open and bright appearance.

  • Recommended:Natural or cat eye mapping is the best style for round eyes. By emphasizing on the length of the eye's outer corner, it can create the illusion of almond-shaped eyes. Looser curls such as B curl or C curl can complement the round eye shape.
  • Avoid: Doll-eye or open-eye mappings, strongest curls.


Hooded eyes

  The brow bone of hooded eyes is prominent and has a deep crease. Depending on the size of the hood, t he lash line may be concealed behind the eyelid, pinning the lashes down and covering the majority of the roots.

  • Recommended: To make sure the effect is visible, use a curl that can stretch past the hood of the lid before curling up. The hooded eye shape matches L and L+ curls.
  • Avoid: CC/D curls



Monolid eyes

  Monolid eye shape is common in Asian women, it features a less apparent crease.

  • Recommended: Monolid eyes are suitable for doll-eye and cat-eye mappings, and it’s best to apply longer extensions on the inner corner.
  • Avoid: Natural mapping 


Eye Angle

There are different kinds of eye angle, including straight, slightly upturned, or slightly downturned.


  Upturned eyes are also known as “cat eyes”. Upturned eyes have an unique appearance because the outer corners are tilted upward and higher than the inner corner.

  • Recommended: Both natural mapping and cat eye mapping would be suitable. Natural mapping can give a more balanced appearance while cat eye mapping can be used to emphasize the tilt upward eye form. 
  • Avoid: Doll/open eye mapping, strong curls such as D curl.



Downturned eyes have lower outer corners than inner corners. 


  • Recommended:Doll-eye or open-eye maps would complement this eye angle. For an elevated appearance, the inner corner of the eye should be the focal point of the lash length. Strong curls can also be used to raise the corners of your eyes. 
  • Avoid: Cat-eye mapping (it emphasizes the downturn and might lead to a sad or sleepy look)


Eye Spacing

  Eyes that are evenly spaced have one eye's width between them. In contrast, wide-set eyes have more than one eye's width between them, while close-set/narrow-set eyes are closer together than one eye width. 


Close-set eyes:

Eyes that are closer together than one eye-width.

  • Recommended: Longer lengths towards the outer corners to visually widen the gap.
  • Avoid: Doll or open-eye mapping


Wide-set eyes:

Eyes that have more than one eye width between them.

  • Recommended:Doll or open-eye mapping
  • Avoid: Elongated cat eye mapping
  • Natural Lash Strength 

  In some situations, your client may want lashes that are really long or full, yet their natural lashes might not be capable of supporting them. The weight of extensions that are 12mm or 13mm in length will be too much for fine, fragile lashes to support.


Natural Lash Curl 

  Everybody's natural eyelashes grow in different directions. While some people's lashes are naturally curly, others may have lashes that are fairly straight or points downward. 

  To bring out the best in each client's eyes while ensuring that their eyes won't be obscured by lash extensions or appear odd, you should choose the appropriate lash curl for every client.

Brow Shape

  Eyes can be framed by brow shape. It's crucial to take into account the contour of the brows and select lash extensions that are compatible with them. 


Face Shape

  Wide faces can carry more dramatic looks, whereas narrow faces may look overwhelmed by excessively long lashes or a wide cat-eye. 

Wide face
  • Recommended: Cat-eye, natural
  • Avoid: Doll eye, open eye
Narrow face
  • Recommended: Doll eye, open eye, natural
  • Avoid: Cat-eye



How To Do Lash Mapping?

  After analyzing your client's facial features, you should come up with the initial concept for the eyelash design and then create a detailed map to execute it. You can follow our step-by-step guide:


Step 1: Mapping on the skin

  With the client's eyes open, place dots above where you want the longest lashes to be, closer to the eyebrows. You can mark closer to the lash line if the eyelids and lashes have previously been cleaned.

  Depending on the style you choose, you can place several dots to mark where the different sections should go. This step can help guide you of where the iris or pupil is when the client has their eyes closed, it would be one of the main indicators you need for lash mapping.


Step 2: Apply eye pads

  After mapping on the skin, place the gel pads under the lower lashes and simply press to secure them in place. Keep the eye pads at least 1-2 millimeters away from the waterline.


Step 3: Lash mapping on the gel pads

  Ask your client to close their eyes after applying eye pads, then use your colored pen to precisely replicate the markings you drew on the skin with your gel pad. 

  After that, you can draw lines on the pads to decide where to place the extensions. Depending on the type of lashes, it is recommended to split the region into 5–6 sections, if not more. The lengths and curls for each area should be noted down. 

  Once you’ve finished your lash map on the eye pads for the desired style, you can start applying the lash extensions!




  It's always crucial to ask your client what style they like prior to lash mapping, but you should also be ready to propose another option if necessary. After inspecting your client, discuss the design or modification you want to make with them to see what will work best for them.

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